What are the differences between leather shoes in Britain, the United States, Japan and France? The most complete guide to shoe selection!
Every time you walk into OAK ROOM and see the spectacular wall of shoes, I believe you feel both amazed and dazzled, right?
It is said that too many choices will make it difficult to choose. Among so many types of shoes, how do you choose a pair of leather shoes that suits you best?
In this article, we take the existing shoe brands in the OAK ROOM store as an example , and explain the most basic leather shoe structure in an easy-to-understand way, so that after reading it, you can choose a pair of good shoes that can accompany you for a long time!
Before choosing leather shoes, understand these terms first
When you first enter a professional leather shoe store, you will probably be confused by some of the terms. What is Last? Does Last mean the latest? Why are there different models of shoe lasts? What's the difference in the soles?
A pair of leather shoes is made up of quite a few parts, but in this article we will first discuss the two most important parts that greatly affect comfort: the last and the sole.
Shoe last
People who like leather shoes must often mention the Last, which is the last of the shoe, referring to the front edge of the toe and the wide part of the foot.
No matter what shoes you buy, whether the toes can be placed is always the primary consideration. At the same time, different last types will directly affect a person's body proportions. Pointed lasts make people look slender, while round lasts make people look casual.
The same is true for leather shoes, of course, so when choosing leather shoes, the last is often the most important aspect. Every leather shoe brand has several types of lasts. Some century-old manufacturers even give them numbers and names for easy identification. These century-old manufacturers also have their own classic signature lasts that have been tested by several generations. If you don’t have much experience, you can try this type of last first. 
[ 1 ]
Sole
The sole is another important point to look at when choosing leather shoes. In addition to aesthetics, whether the sole is supportive enough, soft enough, easily replaceable, etc. are all factors that will be affected by the shoe.
Traditional leather shoes are made entirely of leather, from the upper to the sole. Even if you look at it with your naked eyes or touch it with your hands, you may think, "It feels so hard, how can it be leather?" But it is.
[ 2 ]
Moreover, the sole manufacturing methods are usually divided into two types, one is McKay (also known as Blake), and the other is Goodyear. Yes, it is the Goodyear of Goodyear tires, because this manufacturing method was invented by Charles, the inventor of rubber. Invented by Goodyear's youngest son.
The invention of the Mackay process was earlier than that of Goodyear, but it is relatively less common now because Goodyear has too many advantages, such as durability and easy maintenance, which can extend the life of a pair of leather shoes. For this reason, most of the leather shoes currently introduced by OAK ROOM have Goodyear soles.
[ 3 ]
The above are two common leather sole stitching techniques for leather shoes. But with the advancement of technology, many leather shoes now have rubber soles, including those from century-old manufacturers. Some friends who are not used to wearing leather soles will choose rubber soles to enter the busy urban life.
[ 4 ]
So which one is more wear-resistant, leather sole or rubber sole? In fact, it is hard to say, because the leather sole is made up of layers of leather, which is far more wear-resistant than you think. It may only need to be replaced if you wear it very often. So I'm not afraid of you wearing it out, but I'm actually afraid that you won't wear it out at all.
Differences between different parts and countries
Shoe last
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nation |
feature |
example |
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U.K. |
Round or almond-shaped, conservative and elegant. |
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USA |
More rounded, wide, casual and rough |
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France |
The last is slightly rounded but still maintains the waistline, which is more elegant and fashionable. |
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Japan |
Fusion of elements from various countries. Most of them are slightly modified based on classic European and American lasts to suit the needs of Asian feet. |
Sole
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nation |
feature |
example |
|
UK, France Some British brands will launch their own rubber soles |
Practicality and craftsmanship details. British soles often have the famous and beautiful "willow leaf waist". |
Edward Green uses oak, spruce and acacia bark sap to tan the finest leather soles for 9 months to improve comfort and wear resistance. JM Weston also uses quebracho tanning in its own tannery for 8 to 10 months. |
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USA |
Thick cowhide or rubber sole, or grease-treated flexible leather sole, cork midsole, Goodyear 360-degree welt sewing, easy to repair. |
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Japan |
High-quality leather or rubber soles that combine elements from various countries. Focusing on comfort, it is durable but slightly soft, so it is soft and comfortable from the beginning. |
Oriental emphasizes that the sole is "sturdy and durable, an ideal leather shoe for Asians." |
Heel
Generally, the heel height of leather shoes is similar in different countries, with an error range of about 1 inch, but there are differences in shape and details.
The heels of British gentlemen's shoes are mostly traditional right-angled stacked heels with moderate height, mainly functional, and rarely too high or too low.
Leather shoes in various countries generally use genuine leather stacked heels, that is, multiple layers of leather are stacked and nailed together to make the heels, and wear-resistant rubber is nailed on the bottom.
Instep and arch
|
nation |
feature |
example |
|
U.K. |
The difference between British and American shoes in the instep is not as noticeable as in width. The average instep height of Europeans and Americans is medium. British lasts have always been known for being "in between". Most British lasts are based on the average European foot shape, so they are quite friendly to people with normal arches . If the instep is high, British brands usually recommend choosing a half size larger or a wider last (for example, British shoe factories often offer different widths, and a wider last will also slightly increase the space inside the shoe). |
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USA |
American brands often offer a wide range of shoe last sizes and "high and low instep" options. |
Alden still retains the Modified Last , which can effectively fit high arches and accommodate higher insteps in many styles (especially the Derby open-top style). |
|
Japan (Asia Representative) |
The average height of the instep of Asians (including Japanese) is relatively low and their feet are flat, so the shoe lasts of Asian brands mostly have a lower space inside the shoe and fit the instep closely. Many Japanese shoe manufacturers will deliberately lower the height of the tongue and the curvature of the upper to avoid the situation where Asian consumers have a large area of "tongue opening" or "upper pressing on the instep" when wearing shoes. |
Foot width
|
nation |
feature |
example |
|
UK, France |
No particular width or narrowness. |
In British sizes, E or F is often used as the standard width for men's shoes (equivalent to D or E in US standards). Asians or people with particularly wide feet can go up half a size or choose loose shoes such as derby shoes (flat-toed lace-up shoes). France has its own unique sizing system. |
|
United States, Japan |
The last is wider. Many people in these two places have wider feet, and American brands tend to provide a variety of last width options. |
Even if Japanese shoes are not large in size, there is still plenty of room in the forefoot of the shoe last, but people who are used to the slender European and American lasts may not be able to adapt to them. American brands have a variety of widths to choose from. For example, Alden's size label has widths such as C, D, and E in addition to the number (length). People with wide feet can directly choose E. |
How do leather shoe brands from different countries process leather?
Everyone agrees: high-quality calfskin
High-end leather shoes in various countries mostly use high-quality calfskin (Calf) to make the uppers, but British and French brands also launch a small number of cordovan leather models.
Japanese brands are much more flexible in terms of materials. They use calfskin imported from France and Italy to make shoes, and are also keen on using a variety of special leathers to showcase diverse styles. 
[ 5 ]
Advanced Player's Treasure: Cordovan
In addition to calfskin, another well-known leather is a major feature of American leather shoes: Shell Cordovan.
Horween cordovan is a specialty leather from the United States. American brands such as Alden have been famous for their cordovan shoes since the mid-20th century. Cordovan leather is wear-resistant, waterproof, and has a mellow luster, and is deeply loved by players. Alden's most famous burgundy No. 8 cordovan loafers and long-winged shoes all have a unique charm due to the cordovan. 
[ 6]
Cordovan leather produced by Shinki Hikaku, a famous Japanese leather manufacturer, is considered a top choice besides Horween. Oriental once specially made a pair of cognac-colored loafers made of Japanese-made new Himalayan leather for OAK ROOM. 
[ 7 ]
Leather and Finishing
British and French brands usually use vegetable tanning or semi-vegetable and semi-mineral tanning to process the upper leather, retaining the natural feel and pores of the leather, making it easier to wipe out the patina in the future. Their uppers are mostly matte or lightly polished finishes, emphasizing the natural wrinkles and shine after wear.
The surface of Alden's cordovan shoes is usually treated with wax, and initially presents a very uniform dark gloss. Interestingly, some enthusiasts compared the differences in the treatment of the same burgundy cordovan leather uppers by Edward Green and Alden: Edward Green added almost no coating, retaining the natural appearance of the leather, so the original color difference and texture can be seen at the toe and heel stretch points.
Alden applies a layer of dye (paint) to the cordovan to make it very uniform in color and smooth to the touch. Therefore, Alden's No. 8 cordovan is darker and more purple-red than Edward Green, while Edward Green is a pure burgundy color.
There is no absolute good or bad between the two styles; they just reflect the different pursuits of the brands in terms of material presentation. British brands value the natural beauty of leather, while American brands emphasize a consistent and durable appearance.
Other Leather
In addition to calfskin and cordovan, brands from various countries also use special leathers such as suede, rubbed leather, ostrich skin, lizard skin, etc. French brands value fashion, so century-old brands like JM Weston have also released limited edition crocodile leather 180 loafers.
British shoe factories mostly focus on traditional leather craftsmanship and rarely deal with rare leathers (except John Lobb, Church's, etc. which may provide private customization). In the United States, because of the Western boot culture, ostrich skin and lizard skin are also used to make casual boots.
Compared with European and American craftsmen, Japanese craftsmen are less burdened by design and are therefore very keen on special leathers. Craftsmen such as Han Shoemaker often prepare a variety of rare leathers for customers to choose from, even including limited edition leathers from well-known European tanneries.
Under the influence of globalization, the materials used by different countries have become similar, and the only difference lies in the usage habits.
How should different people choose leather shoes?
Pragmatic, entry-level players with limited budgets |
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Compare Projects |
Brand and country |
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Crockett & Jones (UK) |
Alden (USA) |
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Suitable for |
Good value for money, durable and decent. Suitable for beginners. |
Newbies who are afraid of leather shoes biting their feet, But it is mid-priced, so you need to be careful when getting started. |
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Frequency of wearing |
Sturdy and durable, can be worn in the morning or evening. |
Sturdy and durable, can be worn in the morning or at night. Cordovan shoes can even be passed down from generation to generation. |
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Convenience |
The leather on the upper is thick but soft, the shoe last is friendly to normal foot shape, and it is quite comfortable to wear all day long. The adaptation period is not long, maintenance is simple, and it is easy for beginners to control. |
Corrective shoes started Any foot shape can find a home here. |
OAK ROOM colleagues recommend shoes
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Crockett & Johns : Highbury Derby shoes , the 348 last used is slim and slender, and is regarded as one of the most important lasts of the brand in the past 20 years.
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Alden : Color 8 Burgundy Cordovan 990 Plain Toe Blucher Derby Shoes .
Beginners with a good budget |
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Compare Projects |
Brand and country |
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Edward Green (UK) |
JM Weston (France) |
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Suitable for |
Many people may protest if we put the shoe king in this column. Although the prices of Shoe King are not affordable, as a century-old manufacturer, they have encountered all kinds of foot shapes and ethnicities, so they have all kinds of shoes and style matching is not a problem. As long as your wallet is ready, you can trust them completely! |
Although the price is mid-to-high, the brand has taken the essence of American shoemaking, so there is not much need for an adaptation period. |
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Frequency of wearing |
In addition to the title of "King of Shoes", Edward Green is also known as "the everyday shoes of the rich", so it is definitely not a decoration to be placed at home, but a good companion for busy people to run around the world. |
When the brand was first founded, it was all about making shoes more comfortable to wear. The second generation of successors went to the United States for further studies, which also created an image of durability that is deeply rooted in people's hearts. Wearing it frequently is definitely not a problem. |
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Convenience |
The soles are mostly made of leather that has been vegetable tanned for 9 months using the ancient oak method and are made using the Tibetan Goodyear stitching method, combining durability and beauty. |
They may feel a little stiff when you first put them on, but because of the high-quality materials, the leather softens and fits the shape of your feet after you wear them a few times, and then they become very comfortable. French shoes are not difficult to maintain. Similar to British shoes, they can be kept shiny by regularly oiling and polishing them. They are absolutely friendly to beginners! |
OAK ROOM colleagues recommend shoes
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Edward Green : Dover split-seam Derby shoes are famous for their hand-sewn U-shaped toes and are also a famous item among shoe fans.
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JM Weston : 180 loafers , a classic brand that also looks great with jeans!
Appearance-oriented, emerging players with limited budgets |
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Compare Projects |
Brand and country |
Oriental (Japan) |
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Suitable for |
The price is affordable, and the workmanship and texture are close to those in Europe and the United States. The shoe shape is suitable for Asians and is suitable for emerging players. |
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Frequency of wearing |
Using Goodyear technology, durability is also emphasized. Its actual lifespan and durability are similar to those of British shoes, and it can be worn frequently as a daily work shoe. At the same time, many of Oriental's styles take convenience into consideration, such as the launch of some soft loafers without lining, which are very suitable for high-frequency use in summer. |
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Convenience |
"It feels soft as soon as you put it on"! Almost no long running-in time is required. |
OAK ROOM colleagues recommend shoes
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Oriental Shoemaker: Albers penny loafers , suitable for Asian feet with wide soles and high insteps.
Experienced players who value style and have a large budget |
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Compare Projects |
Brand and country |
Han Shoemaker (Japan) |
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Suitable for |
Advanced players who appreciate the craftsmanship and are willing to wait |
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Frequency of wearing |
It is fine to wear them every day, but since most buyers cherish them, they will not treat such art-grade shoes as shoes for traveling on rainy days. Therefore, it is more suitable for medium to low frequency wear and careful maintenance to appreciate its handmade value. |
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Convenience |
Emphasizing that "beautiful but not abrupt curves are the soul of shoemaking" - this means that his shoes will take into account the natural curvature of the foot when walking while ensuring an elegant appearance. Combining craftsmanship and practicality, and completely tailored to the individual, they are undoubtedly walking works of art, but most people may not want to let their shoes touch the ground. |
Use your budget to select the brand that suits you
Budget range: NT$15,000 to NT$29,000
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Japan Oriental : Most shoes under Oriental’s own brand are priced around NT$10,000 to NT$20,000.
For example, the Albers cordovan loafers (made from Japanese Shinki cordovan leather) from Oriental x OAK ROOM are priced roughly like mid-range British or Spanish brands, but are of superior quality and cost-effective.
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Crockett & Jones from the UK : This brand is mid-to-high-end priced in the UK, costing around NT$20,000.
For example, OAK ROOM's popular Highbury Derby black calf derby shoes , regular lace-up shoes and loafers are all priced under NT$25,000. However, this brand also has a premium version of the product line - "Handgrade", which you can consider if you have enough budget.
Budget range: NT$30,000 to NT$39,000
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JM. Weston of France : The price of JM Weston in Taiwan is around 300,000 yuan. Although it is not cheap, it is much more affordable than the British shoe king Edward Green. It is a suitable option for friends who want to be conservative and fashionable.
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Alden, USA : Alden price depends on the material. Generally, calfskin models, such as suede loafers, can be taken away for around 20 million yuan.
However, the signature cordovan leather shoes have limited leather production, and the quantity is also reflected in the selling price, which is around NT$35,000. However, for players who are fascinated by the unique color and luster of cordovan leather, this price is still reasonable.
Budget: NT$50,000 or above
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Edward Green from the UK : After all, it is the king of British shoes, and its price also highlights its value and status. The price range is about NT$50,000 to NT$60,000. The brand's most classic Chelsea Oxford shoes are priced at NT$50,000. Other classic models such as the Dover split-toe Derby shoes are also priced at over NT$60,000, which shows how noble and noble they are.
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Han Shoemaker : Han Shoemaker is positioned more like a work of art, so unlike other brands, it does not always have a large amount of stock.
Because things are rare and valuable, the price range is approximately NT$40,000 to NT$60,000. However, players who choose this brand are more concerned about the craftsmanship and exclusive experience it contains, so most of them will not measure its value purely by price.